About me:

Originally from Hull, I now live in Llanberis, North Wales. Totally addicted to climbing, I work at the Indy Climbing wall and as a freelance routesetter to fund my dirty habit.

7 March 2011

The sun came out...

A sure sign it was time to come out out finger-rehab-hibernation. A good first half of the week was spent mainly at Gogarth getting back into it. Managed to knock out a few classics, Resolution Direct (E2 5b), South Sea Bubble (E3 5c), The Strand (E2 5b), and The Needle (E3/4 5c). The latter took a whole day's worth of effort due to a few chalky mishaps. Then after a couple of rest days and feeling ready for trad again, I got spanked by Grendel (E1 5c) a savage roof crack at Holyhead Mountain, go try it.

On the sabbath with the BUMS, ready to earn redemption, I went to Clogwyn y Bustach in the Nant Gwynant valley. It's a great crag, but looking more than a little friable in places (although I personally didn't actually break anything off). To warm up I soloed Gallop Step (HVS 4c), a phoenomenally juggy traverse that starts and finishes on the ground but manages to gain a pleasant amount of exposure. The perfect solo.  Then I got a belay from Laura on The Growler (E5 6a), which tackles a steep, peg-filled (good pegs too!)  bulging wall to begin, and then moves up a steady slabby section which leads into 'Gallop Step' and a rotten lower-off. I lowered off here but the route keeps on going up a sidewall with a scary move to a peg. I thought the route was great fun like this though and probably about E4 6a. Check it out, and if you do, take some cord or an old wire for the lower-off, it's looking a little worse for wear.  As the sun left the crag so did we. Back on the bus and onwards to the slate. It was a bit nippier than expected but still nice. Here I managed to get the 2nd ascent of  Swiss Air (6c), a new bolted line just right of Fresh Air. It starts up a thin slab via some borehole pockets and then takes a swooping corner to a final push up a dirty, loose wall. It should get better with traffic and rain.

Anyway heading to Castell Cidwm tomorrow, so hopefully I will have something to talk about...

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