I met the Ed in the car park in the morning and we walked in heads down against the wind. Arriving at the gigantic hole of Twll Mawr, Ed seemed entirely undetered by the ferocious winds and it was evident there was no backing out. I realised I'd picked up Georges boots so borrowed a pair of Ed's baggy shoes, not what yo uwant for your first slate E6. We traversed a scree slope and abbed in to the bottom of the route (already about 80m from the bottom of the pit). We tied a pair of ascenders to the end of the rope in case we couldn't do the route and had to back off, we could just pull up the rope with them. Stood at the first belay we watched the wind blow the abseil rope out of reach across the wall. There was no other way out now except up. We were well and truly committed.
Ed set off on the first pitch and tussled his way up an awkward, slick groove to a 'grip-clip' at the second bolt, but wedged in the groove with a double knee jam, when he tried to move he was spat out. Pulling back on, he laybacked away to glory. I seconded clean but only by the skin of my teeth.
|At the top of the uber tenuous groove/arete on P2. Already exposed and |
only halfway there
|Me by the last runner on the final (easy!) pitch, just a 5-move 6a |
sequence, a 15ft juggy romp and a 'mantle to glory' to go.