Heres a little video by GVG from the peak trip. Definitely dont need to re-adjust that much!
http://vimeo.com/34099397
thank youuuuuu!
23 December 2011
21 December 2011
Two-thousand and eleven.
Well it's about time for a round-up of the year, the highlights and the lowdarks. It should be handy for putting things in perspective and realising what I have/haven't achieved, and resurrecting the blog ready for 2012.
On the face of things I'm a little dissapointed with the year. I got out the least I have for a few years and saw no real progression, no PB's and only 3 ticks (out of 36) on my 2011 wishlist.
However putting a little more thought into it, this could have been the year I needed.
I really chilled out with striving to achieve and took a bit of a backseat. I was able to just go out cragging and get on E5's, a feat which only a few years ago I used to think would cap off my climbing career.
I didn't manage to do much sport climbing, but on my trip to El Chorro I managed to flash a 7c which matches my previous PB.
I did my first FA, or so I thought. It turns out that the lower groove had previously been climbed by Tim Neill 10 years ago. This doesn't really matter though as the experience of discovering a (new) line and climbing it in the best style I could was nourishing. It gave me a wave of psyche, one day I even ran up there with only 2 hours to spare to give it a clean. I definately like to do a proper FA one day.
This year though, has been a major tipping point for me with regards to bouldering. I had a month working 4days on, 4 days off at the Indy Climbing Wall and managed to gain that strength everyone else had. Now when my feet come off it doesn't necessarily mean I will, and I finally gained coordination to slap for things without forgetting to take at least one hand off. This major progress was a result of rest days. Every winter for the last four or five, without fail, I've managed to pick up a finger injury through turning my hand to training and hammering it day in day out. I may have enjoyed it but my tendons didn't. Listen to your fingers.
In essence this year has been a real consolidation period. I'm ready for E6 now, I'm ready for sport in the 8's and I'm ready to really enjoy the physical and mental challenge of the rock. I'm still (optimistically) ambitious but I remember now why I want to do hard things. It's not about the grade, it's about the relative difficulty to yourself and the situation you find yourself in when really pushing it. The thing I love most about climbing is the fight, toeing the line ready to spar with adversity.
The major thing for me to overcome in 2012 is the irrational fear of falling. I'm not saying I was ever totally comfortable with it, but somewhere along the line in the last few years I developed a real fear of falling and failure. It manifested itself by avoiding getting on things where the odds on success were less than 80%, and it really inhibited movement for a lot of the year. So at the start of the year I'm going to take hundreds of falls to show my brain that it's generally as much of a buzz as success. This should stop me beating around the bush, going out with intention, but instead quietly settling for a lesser challenge.
So the new years resolution is: get on with it!
My 2011 Highlights:
Decomposed for the FA experience.
Reproduction for ticking all the boxes of what I love about climbing, getting on with it against the odds, big runouts, litres of lactic, and on a beautiful canvass of pocketed lime.
Psychic Threshold, for being totally nails at E5 and just making it.
King Wad, for the phoenomenal finish, slapping whilst runout and super exposed.
Byzantium, just a brilliant route thats got everything.
John Wayne, I normally climb slowly but I did all 40m of this in about 10mins as the sun was setting on my time in Pembroke.
Ludwig and Walt Disney, both for being quite out-there and totally spanking my head, and revealing my weaknesses.
My days out sport climbing racking up lots of 7's in a day.
My peak bouldering trip for boosting my bouldering confidence, laying some old demons to rest and realising what I could be capable of in 2012.
For anyone interested here's my wishlist for 2012.
On the face of things I'm a little dissapointed with the year. I got out the least I have for a few years and saw no real progression, no PB's and only 3 ticks (out of 36) on my 2011 wishlist.
However putting a little more thought into it, this could have been the year I needed.
I really chilled out with striving to achieve and took a bit of a backseat. I was able to just go out cragging and get on E5's, a feat which only a few years ago I used to think would cap off my climbing career.
I didn't manage to do much sport climbing, but on my trip to El Chorro I managed to flash a 7c which matches my previous PB.
I did my first FA, or so I thought. It turns out that the lower groove had previously been climbed by Tim Neill 10 years ago. This doesn't really matter though as the experience of discovering a (new) line and climbing it in the best style I could was nourishing. It gave me a wave of psyche, one day I even ran up there with only 2 hours to spare to give it a clean. I definately like to do a proper FA one day.
This year though, has been a major tipping point for me with regards to bouldering. I had a month working 4days on, 4 days off at the Indy Climbing Wall and managed to gain that strength everyone else had. Now when my feet come off it doesn't necessarily mean I will, and I finally gained coordination to slap for things without forgetting to take at least one hand off. This major progress was a result of rest days. Every winter for the last four or five, without fail, I've managed to pick up a finger injury through turning my hand to training and hammering it day in day out. I may have enjoyed it but my tendons didn't. Listen to your fingers.
In essence this year has been a real consolidation period. I'm ready for E6 now, I'm ready for sport in the 8's and I'm ready to really enjoy the physical and mental challenge of the rock. I'm still (optimistically) ambitious but I remember now why I want to do hard things. It's not about the grade, it's about the relative difficulty to yourself and the situation you find yourself in when really pushing it. The thing I love most about climbing is the fight, toeing the line ready to spar with adversity.
The major thing for me to overcome in 2012 is the irrational fear of falling. I'm not saying I was ever totally comfortable with it, but somewhere along the line in the last few years I developed a real fear of falling and failure. It manifested itself by avoiding getting on things where the odds on success were less than 80%, and it really inhibited movement for a lot of the year. So at the start of the year I'm going to take hundreds of falls to show my brain that it's generally as much of a buzz as success. This should stop me beating around the bush, going out with intention, but instead quietly settling for a lesser challenge.
So the new years resolution is: get on with it!
My 2011 Highlights:
Decomposed for the FA experience.
Reproduction for ticking all the boxes of what I love about climbing, getting on with it against the odds, big runouts, litres of lactic, and on a beautiful canvass of pocketed lime.
Psychic Threshold, for being totally nails at E5 and just making it.
King Wad, for the phoenomenal finish, slapping whilst runout and super exposed.
Byzantium, just a brilliant route thats got everything.
John Wayne, I normally climb slowly but I did all 40m of this in about 10mins as the sun was setting on my time in Pembroke.
Ludwig and Walt Disney, both for being quite out-there and totally spanking my head, and revealing my weaknesses.
My days out sport climbing racking up lots of 7's in a day.
My peak bouldering trip for boosting my bouldering confidence, laying some old demons to rest and realising what I could be capable of in 2012.
For anyone interested here's my wishlist for 2012.
THE LIST: 2012
ONSIGHT
The Golden Mile E5
Bastille E6
A Kilnsey E6
Ghost Train E6
Souls E6
Pretty Girls Make Graves E6
Potency E6
Rainbow of Recalcitrance E6
Disillusioned Screw Machine E6
The Long Goodbye E6
Teenage Kicks E6
Midnight at Noon E6
2 Main Cliff E5’s in a day E6
Skinhead Moonstomp E6
The Cad E6
Angel Dust E6
Conan the Librarian E6/7
The Clown E7
Surgical Lust E7
Yukan II E7
Dominatrix 7c
Boat People 7c
A Ceuse 8a
FLASH/G-UP
Dinosaur (rematch) E5
Wall of Evening Light (rematch) 7b+
Bad, Bad Boy 7c+
Mescalito 7c+
Dead Calm 8a
Jerry’s Roof 7C
Anything from the Onsight List
RP
Master of the Universe E7
A Scimitar E7
Nightmayer E8
Totally Wired 9 E8
My Piano E8
A Grit RP
A Leap E8
Mussel Beach 8a
Battle of the Little Big Orme 8a+
The Waiting Game 8a
Melancholie 8b
The Ashes 7c+
Urgent Action 8a+
Supercool 8a+
Ecstasy 8b
A Ceuse 8a+/8b
BOULDER
New Jerusalem 7A
Ringpiece 7B+
Underhand 7B+
Eastwood Traverse 7B+
Dick Williams 7B+
The Storm 7B+
Suavito 7B+
Powerband 7C
Ben’s Roof 7C+
Brad Pitt 7C+
The Gimp 7B
Incredible Shaking Man SS 7B
Wavelength 7B+
Barrel Traverse 7B+
Roadside Full 7C
The Big Smile 7C
Lou Ferrino 7C+
Diesel Power 8A
The Highlife 8A
Well you gotta aim high...
15 September 2011
Screaming Heels and Painted Nails
After King Wad I was totally buzzing, it’s definitely one of the best routes I have ever done. That wasn’t the end of the day though. Livingstone went on and led Chreon (E2 5b), a big open corner with technical climbing 3-D climbing and gear just where you want it. To top the day off I led Killerkranky (E5 6a), I’d tried this a year or two ago and got shot down pretty badly, but it did mean this time I had a little inside knowledge. I managed to climb it pretty quickly pausing only briefly to fiddle in runners and assess the next moves, a style that I hope I can develop as I’m not the fastest climber around.
Then we abbed into Main Cliff from the top of Resolution Direct/Achilles. We used a 100m rope but an 80m would probably reach, just. The Abseil lands you on the West side of the Gogarth pinnacle so it’s good knowledge if you’re doing two or more routes on Main Cliff or if the tide is still high as passing the pinnacle is one of the lowest bits of the traverse. We had come down to do Citadel (E5 6b). The route has two main pitches the first has a famous crux, whilst the second is an absolute festival of pump. I would normally pick the pumpy pitch but we let the Queen decide. She span round and round in the air landing face down in the dirt. Tails. I take the crux pitch.
After a night of grinning like a Cheshire cat I headed to Main Cliff with George in search of adventure. We decided to have a go at Winking Crack (E3 5c) first. It has a fearsome reputation because of its final offwidth crack. I led the first pitch which was supposed to be 5a but I was made to work for it and had to knock it up a gear or two to finish the pitch.
The night before Laura insisted on painting my finger nails so I let her do one hand for scientific research. Apparently Laura noticed she became a lot more aware of what she was doing with her hands with her nails painted. I decided to test out the theory and see if it could be applied to climbing. In the morning I had to pick up some shoes for Laura, as I received the receipt from the cashier an embarrassed glance was passed from both sides as she thought she realised the shoes weren’t really for my girlfriend, and I realised what she was thinking.
Anyway, seconding George on the top pitch I gained the gnarly offwidth, psyched up and dived in to do battle, like a rugby player going into a scrum. Thrutching away I noticed my hand and the testosterone fuelled fight stopped and I began daintly shuffling my way up the edge of the chimney using all the little crimps and edges until these ran out and I wished I’d stuck to thrutching. So the verdict is, maybe painted nails is useful for slabs and delicate climbing but it’s a bad idea for butch stuff and buying women’s clothes.
 |
| Arm Barring at the top of Winking Crack (E3 5c), George Ullrich Collection. |
The climbing felt good, some tricky moves over bulges and round overlaps led to a resting niche with some strange old, wooden instruments jammed into the crack. Above me laid the crux and a peg to protect it. I can only assume the peg was made of Cadburys Flake and has deteriorated since. It wilted further as I placed a quickdraw on it, and once the rope was clipped to this it looked ready to snap. So filled with confidence I inspected the crux sequence a few times, it was by no means obvious. I finally committed to some awkward undercuts, pulling out into the point of no return I threw in a pre-empted dropknee and before I knew it I had easier ground in my hands and a sloshing bucketful of exposure beneath me.
In the heat our tight rock boots had become tighter, excruciatingly so. I squeezed the sweat from the foam in my helmet whilst George cooled his heels before leading off. Struggling to enjoy the climbing through the pain he sprinted the pitch with me following suit. Even climbing hastily we still both felt the presence of the lactic reaper gaining on us. As always on the Main Cliff the last pitch felt like a chore, you’re always ready to be topped out at the bottom of the last pitch, and to make it a little more punishing at the top of the route we had a terrifying 50m traverse across vertical heather back to the bags. We had planned to do another route but our Achilles proved to be our Achilles so we didn’t abb back down Achilles.
Three days later I had tired of watching the crap weather so me and Owain hit up the slate between the showers. We decided to have a go at the new multipitch sport routes in Twll Mawr. The aptly named Supermassive Black Hole (7a,6b+,7a,6b) was up first we abbed in using a 60m rope to get down the top three pitches then abbed off the belay of the 1st pitch to get to the base of the route. I led pitch 1 and 2 in a oner (37m). There were a few technical moves but ample rests and easy sections made me think that maybe it’s only 6c+. Owain led the top two pitches in one 37m pitch at 6c+ again. This one had slightly easier moves but was more sustained. Overall the route is bound to become a classic outing with brilliant climbing in a brilliant place. Get on it.
It rained again the next day So I went out bolting with the some of the Old Boys of North Wales, Chris Parkin, Andy Boorman, Norman Clacher and Jon Ratcliffe. I’d never been bolting before so I just did the cleaning. I weeded the base of the crag then spent hours digging mud from some enormous, juggy pockets. The routes we cleaned and bolted are on a buttress about 50m right of Mayfair wall called Hanging Rock. They’re all fairly short (about 10m) and of boulder nature in the 7a-7c range. The next day me and Jon tried to go to The Diamond but after sitting in the van through persistent rain we could see The Diamond had bore the brunt of it and would be gopping. We decided to go and warm-up in the cave while we waited for the routes we bolted to dry. Sure enough they dried in about 30mins, we had beat the weather through pure optimism. First off we tried the rightmost line, Bethlehem is Lost (7a, used to be E3 6b), a bouldery start (V4) led to easier climbing on good holds but with little for the feet. Then we tried the leftmost line Slouching Towards Jerusalem (7b+, used to be E4 6b!) The climbing on this was very bouldery with an awesome cutloose dyno/throw, followed by another equally difficult move off a fingery hold, after this it’s a fun romp on the huge jugs I had dug out the day before. Before Leaving we Tried the central groove line, De Torquemada (it used to be E5 6c) neither of us managed it, the climbing seemed desperately technical. So there is still the first ascent for 20years or so waiting to be had on the two middle lines, it will not be easy!
2 September 2011
Crowning glory
If this post can be half as brilliant as the events which inspired it, it's going to be a good one. Having had a couple of days rest I knew I needed to reignite my muscles. So, on Tuesday Laura, Owain, Lisa, and I headed to 'The Cave of Justice' for a quick session, before going to see The Inbetweeners on the big screen. Gravity was strong and I didn't manage to miraculously flash anything I'd not done before, but I did feel like I'd started firing on all pistons again.
After a film and a kip I was ready for action. I headed for Scimitar Ridge with Tom livingstone, his big hair, and matching psyche. Tom decided to go for it straight off on Roc-Nest Monster (E4 6a), a stiff little number with some tricky, blind moves and hard-to-milk rests. A frustrating flash-pump had him off by the first peg, but he recovered quick and got the ground-up tick. I seconded then decided that Killerkranky (E5 6a) would be my next move, but I knew I was putting off the real reason I was here. My reasoning was that I'd not had much luck here before. I don't think I'd ever managed anything harder than E3 onsight at Scimitar. For me though climbing isn't about getting things done, it's about the uncertainty of success and the moment when the rational side turns off and the wild, rushing focus turns on. This is something I often forget but luckily, that day, I remembered. I racked up for King Wad (E5 6b).
King Wad is well known for its stunningly aesthetic upper arete, not only this, but it also possesses, quite possibly, the best finish to a route... Ever. At the bottom of the route, I put all my doubts and concerns behind me and set off climbing each move as it came. Moving quickly and confidently I soon found myself at a baffling move in the mid-height groove. Eventually some fierce crimping and smeary bridging gained a hands-off rest. I had gained the base of the arete proper. I scuttled out to clip the peg and place some gear a couple of times, then a couple more to get a good skeg at what laid ahead. Back at the rest I ran through my potential sequence a few times, trying hard to picture myself making the final lurch. I felt ready to go, so I gave it one more minute, shedded any excess gear, chalked up, rolled up my sleeves, chalked up, wiped my boots, chalked up, checked my harness, chalked up, checked my knots, chalked up. Let's go.
I raced through moves, which felt hard the first time, to my high point. With a slopey edge in my left I eyeballed a sidepull on the arete but couldn't take my right hand off to go to it, trying allsorts with my feet, then I spotted a heelhook by my hand. Seating the heel I knew it would work. I floated weightlessly up to the sidepull and locked on to it. Rocking round to the left I readied myslef to jump but it was further than I expected. I instinctively slapped my left up to an un-holdable sloper. This was it, fight or flight. Breathing deeply, I rocked backwards and forwards like a Preying Mantis, subconsciously rehearsing my trajectory.
I laid one on. Mid-flight, this could go either way. I latched something, but not the jug I was expecting. I'd gained a sidepull, it was supposed to by over. I laid back off it, smearing my right foot. I matched the sidepull with both hands and slapped again. I got a jug this time but it was by no means over. I suddenly became aware how far away I was from the gear and in such a wild position. I let out my most heroic squeal and swarmed up good holds to the top. Then finally, in a fit of uncontrollable elation, I yelled a few 'Fuck Yeahs' (and other less recognisable sounds of jubilation) down the valley before belaying in a state of mad, grinning euphoria, barely noticing the weight of my crown.
After a film and a kip I was ready for action. I headed for Scimitar Ridge with Tom livingstone, his big hair, and matching psyche. Tom decided to go for it straight off on Roc-Nest Monster (E4 6a), a stiff little number with some tricky, blind moves and hard-to-milk rests. A frustrating flash-pump had him off by the first peg, but he recovered quick and got the ground-up tick. I seconded then decided that Killerkranky (E5 6a) would be my next move, but I knew I was putting off the real reason I was here. My reasoning was that I'd not had much luck here before. I don't think I'd ever managed anything harder than E3 onsight at Scimitar. For me though climbing isn't about getting things done, it's about the uncertainty of success and the moment when the rational side turns off and the wild, rushing focus turns on. This is something I often forget but luckily, that day, I remembered. I racked up for King Wad (E5 6b).
King Wad is well known for its stunningly aesthetic upper arete, not only this, but it also possesses, quite possibly, the best finish to a route... Ever. At the bottom of the route, I put all my doubts and concerns behind me and set off climbing each move as it came. Moving quickly and confidently I soon found myself at a baffling move in the mid-height groove. Eventually some fierce crimping and smeary bridging gained a hands-off rest. I had gained the base of the arete proper. I scuttled out to clip the peg and place some gear a couple of times, then a couple more to get a good skeg at what laid ahead. Back at the rest I ran through my potential sequence a few times, trying hard to picture myself making the final lurch. I felt ready to go, so I gave it one more minute, shedded any excess gear, chalked up, rolled up my sleeves, chalked up, wiped my boots, chalked up, checked my harness, chalked up, checked my knots, chalked up. Let's go.
I raced through moves, which felt hard the first time, to my high point. With a slopey edge in my left I eyeballed a sidepull on the arete but couldn't take my right hand off to go to it, trying allsorts with my feet, then I spotted a heelhook by my hand. Seating the heel I knew it would work. I floated weightlessly up to the sidepull and locked on to it. Rocking round to the left I readied myslef to jump but it was further than I expected. I instinctively slapped my left up to an un-holdable sloper. This was it, fight or flight. Breathing deeply, I rocked backwards and forwards like a Preying Mantis, subconsciously rehearsing my trajectory.
I laid one on. Mid-flight, this could go either way. I latched something, but not the jug I was expecting. I'd gained a sidepull, it was supposed to by over. I laid back off it, smearing my right foot. I matched the sidepull with both hands and slapped again. I got a jug this time but it was by no means over. I suddenly became aware how far away I was from the gear and in such a wild position. I let out my most heroic squeal and swarmed up good holds to the top. Then finally, in a fit of uncontrollable elation, I yelled a few 'Fuck Yeahs' (and other less recognisable sounds of jubilation) down the valley before belaying in a state of mad, grinning euphoria, barely noticing the weight of my crown.
30 August 2011
August.
It's been a while since the last blog, but between the rain and work I've done a fair bit of climbing...
I've done a few scary solos including The Boulder (E1 5a) at Cloggy and Electric Blue (E4 5c) at Rhoscolyn (This one's above water but I'm shit scared of the sea so it made hardly any difference).
I've done more climbing above the big blue, well my big blue bouldering mat. I've mostly been 'mileage' bouldering, with my favourite tick being Seren (V4) which is up on the hillside behind Ogwen Cottage. It's an absolute gem that holds its cards close to its chest, get up there and check it out. If you do head that way you'll pass Ogwen Bank Boulder, a roadside venue with a handful of worthwhile V3's, and a brilliant slappy V6, Tavistock Square. My recent bouldering highlight though has to be... Edge Problem (V5). It has evaded me for so long, but I got it first go of the day last week. It sounds like good news but now I have no excuse for not trying Roadside Full, which finishes up Edge Problem. Its' going to be a heartbreaker.
Anyway, it's all about what happens once you've tied the knot (a bowline usually). My most noteworthy 5 ascents of the last month would have to be:
Byzantium (E4 6a) on the Lleyn. A place with a heavyweight reputation for looseness. This route is one of the more conventional on the Lleyn, where the climbing is less of a rock roulette and more about being careful and sure-footed. The route takes a direct line up a huge 45m wall. Where the climbing is not difficult or run-out the rock is suspect, so interest is sustained, and you have to keep your head in the game. If you're thinking of doing it take a lot of draws including several long extenders and a big rack of cams. The wall steepens out at the top, but the rock improves thankfully, and just when you think it's all over, the crux appears... some crank straight through it on some small edges, but there is another method, honest.
In a similar vein the next route on my list is Television Route (E4 5c) on Red Wall, Gogarth. The birds have flown south for the winter so now we get to crimp on their crusty turds. I've been meaning to go to the unlikely looking Red Wall for a while, so as soon as those Cormorants moved out, I moved in. The guide said to aim for a peg to begin with, but with no peg in sight (it's definately gone) I moved up the loose wall tentatively (the uncertainty of suspect rock has a certain moreishness). Every time I lifted my foot, the hold I was just stood on remained stuck to my boot and dropped off. Committing. I could tell no one had been here for a while so I didn't trust anything. After a few metres I relaxed a little but I was still treating everything with suspicion. I gained a groove after a short traverse and got a good cam in, it was as though I could see in colour again, the sound of the sea came back and the holds felt a little more solid. After a handful of confident moves I realised I was fairly run-out so I stuffed a cam into an undercut flake and give it a gentle tug, the flatscreen TV of a flake nearly came completely away, I took the cam out and tip-toed away as if trying to not wake a giant. The rock was still loose and there was no good protection in the last 25ft. With my heart lodged firmly in the back of my throat, I knew the only way was up. The turmoil never ended. First off I went the wrong way, then, with 20m of climbing above me, I realised I had only 3 runners left. To top it off the crux was nails for 5c, and my feet were in agony. Needless to say, once I topped out I bloody loved the route.
The next route subject to retrospective waffle is Decomposed (E6 6b) on Suicide wall, Ogwen. It's a bit of a special one this: my first, first ascent. The route forges a direct path straight through the historical Suicide Wall route 1 (E2 5c). It takes an obvious yet subtle slim groove to begin, housing the crux with a few bold, fingery moves above half a rock 5 (maybe one of those superlights would fit well). Once on the ledge the route plows straight up the wall on pockets and sidepulls as a safe E3/4. I headpointed the bottom half but the top half was flashed after abseil inspection/cleaning. I'm really happy to have bagged the first ascent of this route, a good line in a famous place. I'm still waiting to be told it's been done before. Here's a link to the V12 report of the route.
Another in the mountains, West Buttress Eliminate (E3 5c) at Cloggy. This big route proves to be very testing at the grade requiring a wide range of techniques across its 4 pitches, as well as a cool head and calves of steel. The first pitch is the crux pitch with bold, run-out climbing. The second pitch, Duncan led. It's supposedly 5b, but there were some very thin moves quite high above the gear. The third pitch is the big one; a 25m groove with no holds bar the odd little edge and a soggy crack in the back. Once your tenactity is wilted and your legs are burnt out it delivers one last tricky section before the sanctuary of a good foothold. Phew. The last pitch nips out up an exposed narrow slab and gives you an opportunity to absorb the full grandeur of Cloggy.
Last but not least, Psychic Threshold (E5 6b) at Castell y Gwynt on the Orme. The crag that no one's heard of, but the few who have know it for being steep, shady, hard for the grade, but most of all, for being totally frikking awesome. I first went there a fortnight ago. After doing the classic girdle Appian Way/Watling Street (E2 5c) I wanted to try an E6 but the crag was all damp and slick. I was revved up for a fight so I got on Hidden Sign (7b+), needless to say I was spat off on greasy pinches. Same happened again on Cruella Deville (7a+). Despite/because of the total defeat I was psyched to return.
A week later I tried again with Andy Scofield this time jumping on The Exile (E5 6a) a steady one apparently. After getting pumped to my gums on some poor guppies with ground fall potential I dug deep, reached the sanctuary of a thread and lowered off as I was pumped beyond recovery and it looked like the meat of the route was still to come. Feeling like it was another win for the Gwynt I resigned my trad plans and tried the two sport routes again. This time I managed them both first go, so I got the ground-up tick after last week's attempts. They both feel hard F7b.
Then, again, I went down a couple of days later with Tom Livingstone, we started off on New Dimensions (E4 6a), an Extreme Rock tick. I took pitch 1, a burly bit of blobby tufa climbing. Tom took the famous groove pitch, technical, wide bridging. Tom extended his pitch with the 'mini-finish', a 5c crank over a super exposed, capping roof. Nice.
So, the main event, 45m of overhanging, pocketed limestone. I was determined to onsight this one after all my previous spankings here. Having recently learned that jumping on things without too much thought helps prevent intimidation, so I had a quick glance up and set off. A big roof early on slowed down the quick progress I was making but a quick sit down in a cave saw me ready to launch through the roof. This led straight into a goey section on crimpy pockets. Then the route chilled out for the next 10m on big juggy pockets. At the end of this I took a rest in a wide crack and got a nest of gear in, things were going well. I moved up to a steep section with sidepull pockets to clip a bit of tat before the crux but it had blown out of the way. it took 4 or 5 pumpy ups and downs with shake-outs in between to finally get it clipped, by which point I'd become fairly pumped. I had a brief look at what was ahead but it was fairly blind, I would have to climb into the sequence to find out. I launched upto my high point and straight away committed to the crux, with opposing sidepull pockets I got my feet high on slopey foot holds and locked in hard on my right. groping around with my left, i felt a real surge of urgency, so making-do with a poor edge I pressed on slapping between edges getting further and further from the thread. I got a good hold and tried to fiddle a wire in, but with a fairly solid pump on I had to press on. Luckily above were better holds and finally a more positive foothold. I knew if I could stay on top of the lactic build-up it would be in the bag. A few fingery moves higher the rock quality deteriorated a little so it became a bit delicate which was hard to do pumped, but in the end I topped out victorious and enjoyed that skin-of-teeth feeling.
Ok, one more, but ill make it quick. Samurai Groove (E3 5c) at Carreg Hyll-Drem. This has to get a mention as it's utterly proposterous. An E3 that breaks through dramatically overhanging ground with an almost unvoidable cutloose move. We headed here because it was raining, and legend has it that Hyll-Drem stays dry in all but the wettest weather, luckily for us the rumours were true and we enjoyed a days cragging in the rain. Anyway, the route has a steady first pitch which Owain led. Then the main pitch heads out on sloping jugs to reach a 'one cheek seat' in the sky. From here you can oggle the impossible looking crux for as long as you like. Once appropriately intimidated, you set off into a fairly technical sequence utilising some poor undercuts to gain a hidden jug. Swinging wildy on to the jug there's no going back. From here all you can do is pump out until you find the next hidden jug. when I got the second hidden jug I pulled across into the groove and became immobilised by terminal rope drag... rope tranny. I was so pumped I thought it was game over, that I would have to drop off, but they came free after a handful of flicks. The last 10m were all on enormous jugs but being so pumped it felt like a real struggle.
I've done a few scary solos including The Boulder (E1 5a) at Cloggy and Electric Blue (E4 5c) at Rhoscolyn (This one's above water but I'm shit scared of the sea so it made hardly any difference).
I've done more climbing above the big blue, well my big blue bouldering mat. I've mostly been 'mileage' bouldering, with my favourite tick being Seren (V4) which is up on the hillside behind Ogwen Cottage. It's an absolute gem that holds its cards close to its chest, get up there and check it out. If you do head that way you'll pass Ogwen Bank Boulder, a roadside venue with a handful of worthwhile V3's, and a brilliant slappy V6, Tavistock Square. My recent bouldering highlight though has to be... Edge Problem (V5). It has evaded me for so long, but I got it first go of the day last week. It sounds like good news but now I have no excuse for not trying Roadside Full, which finishes up Edge Problem. Its' going to be a heartbreaker.
Electric Blue (E4 5c/F6c S2), Owain Atkins Collection
Anyway, it's all about what happens once you've tied the knot (a bowline usually). My most noteworthy 5 ascents of the last month would have to be:
Byzantium (E4 6a) on the Lleyn. A place with a heavyweight reputation for looseness. This route is one of the more conventional on the Lleyn, where the climbing is less of a rock roulette and more about being careful and sure-footed. The route takes a direct line up a huge 45m wall. Where the climbing is not difficult or run-out the rock is suspect, so interest is sustained, and you have to keep your head in the game. If you're thinking of doing it take a lot of draws including several long extenders and a big rack of cams. The wall steepens out at the top, but the rock improves thankfully, and just when you think it's all over, the crux appears... some crank straight through it on some small edges, but there is another method, honest.
In a similar vein the next route on my list is Television Route (E4 5c) on Red Wall, Gogarth. The birds have flown south for the winter so now we get to crimp on their crusty turds. I've been meaning to go to the unlikely looking Red Wall for a while, so as soon as those Cormorants moved out, I moved in. The guide said to aim for a peg to begin with, but with no peg in sight (it's definately gone) I moved up the loose wall tentatively (the uncertainty of suspect rock has a certain moreishness). Every time I lifted my foot, the hold I was just stood on remained stuck to my boot and dropped off. Committing. I could tell no one had been here for a while so I didn't trust anything. After a few metres I relaxed a little but I was still treating everything with suspicion. I gained a groove after a short traverse and got a good cam in, it was as though I could see in colour again, the sound of the sea came back and the holds felt a little more solid. After a handful of confident moves I realised I was fairly run-out so I stuffed a cam into an undercut flake and give it a gentle tug, the flatscreen TV of a flake nearly came completely away, I took the cam out and tip-toed away as if trying to not wake a giant. The rock was still loose and there was no good protection in the last 25ft. With my heart lodged firmly in the back of my throat, I knew the only way was up. The turmoil never ended. First off I went the wrong way, then, with 20m of climbing above me, I realised I had only 3 runners left. To top it off the crux was nails for 5c, and my feet were in agony. Needless to say, once I topped out I bloody loved the route.
The next route subject to retrospective waffle is Decomposed (E6 6b) on Suicide wall, Ogwen. It's a bit of a special one this: my first, first ascent. The route forges a direct path straight through the historical Suicide Wall route 1 (E2 5c). It takes an obvious yet subtle slim groove to begin, housing the crux with a few bold, fingery moves above half a rock 5 (maybe one of those superlights would fit well). Once on the ledge the route plows straight up the wall on pockets and sidepulls as a safe E3/4. I headpointed the bottom half but the top half was flashed after abseil inspection/cleaning. I'm really happy to have bagged the first ascent of this route, a good line in a famous place. I'm still waiting to be told it's been done before. Here's a link to the V12 report of the route.
Decomposed (E6 6b), Chris Carroll Collection
Another in the mountains, West Buttress Eliminate (E3 5c) at Cloggy. This big route proves to be very testing at the grade requiring a wide range of techniques across its 4 pitches, as well as a cool head and calves of steel. The first pitch is the crux pitch with bold, run-out climbing. The second pitch, Duncan led. It's supposedly 5b, but there were some very thin moves quite high above the gear. The third pitch is the big one; a 25m groove with no holds bar the odd little edge and a soggy crack in the back. Once your tenactity is wilted and your legs are burnt out it delivers one last tricky section before the sanctuary of a good foothold. Phew. The last pitch nips out up an exposed narrow slab and gives you an opportunity to absorb the full grandeur of Cloggy.
Last but not least, Psychic Threshold (E5 6b) at Castell y Gwynt on the Orme. The crag that no one's heard of, but the few who have know it for being steep, shady, hard for the grade, but most of all, for being totally frikking awesome. I first went there a fortnight ago. After doing the classic girdle Appian Way/Watling Street (E2 5c) I wanted to try an E6 but the crag was all damp and slick. I was revved up for a fight so I got on Hidden Sign (7b+), needless to say I was spat off on greasy pinches. Same happened again on Cruella Deville (7a+). Despite/because of the total defeat I was psyched to return.
A week later I tried again with Andy Scofield this time jumping on The Exile (E5 6a) a steady one apparently. After getting pumped to my gums on some poor guppies with ground fall potential I dug deep, reached the sanctuary of a thread and lowered off as I was pumped beyond recovery and it looked like the meat of the route was still to come. Feeling like it was another win for the Gwynt I resigned my trad plans and tried the two sport routes again. This time I managed them both first go, so I got the ground-up tick after last week's attempts. They both feel hard F7b.
Then, again, I went down a couple of days later with Tom Livingstone, we started off on New Dimensions (E4 6a), an Extreme Rock tick. I took pitch 1, a burly bit of blobby tufa climbing. Tom took the famous groove pitch, technical, wide bridging. Tom extended his pitch with the 'mini-finish', a 5c crank over a super exposed, capping roof. Nice.
Lee Roberts on Psychic Threshold (E5 6b), Jon Ratcliffe Collection
So, the main event, 45m of overhanging, pocketed limestone. I was determined to onsight this one after all my previous spankings here. Having recently learned that jumping on things without too much thought helps prevent intimidation, so I had a quick glance up and set off. A big roof early on slowed down the quick progress I was making but a quick sit down in a cave saw me ready to launch through the roof. This led straight into a goey section on crimpy pockets. Then the route chilled out for the next 10m on big juggy pockets. At the end of this I took a rest in a wide crack and got a nest of gear in, things were going well. I moved up to a steep section with sidepull pockets to clip a bit of tat before the crux but it had blown out of the way. it took 4 or 5 pumpy ups and downs with shake-outs in between to finally get it clipped, by which point I'd become fairly pumped. I had a brief look at what was ahead but it was fairly blind, I would have to climb into the sequence to find out. I launched upto my high point and straight away committed to the crux, with opposing sidepull pockets I got my feet high on slopey foot holds and locked in hard on my right. groping around with my left, i felt a real surge of urgency, so making-do with a poor edge I pressed on slapping between edges getting further and further from the thread. I got a good hold and tried to fiddle a wire in, but with a fairly solid pump on I had to press on. Luckily above were better holds and finally a more positive foothold. I knew if I could stay on top of the lactic build-up it would be in the bag. A few fingery moves higher the rock quality deteriorated a little so it became a bit delicate which was hard to do pumped, but in the end I topped out victorious and enjoyed that skin-of-teeth feeling.
Ok, one more, but ill make it quick. Samurai Groove (E3 5c) at Carreg Hyll-Drem. This has to get a mention as it's utterly proposterous. An E3 that breaks through dramatically overhanging ground with an almost unvoidable cutloose move. We headed here because it was raining, and legend has it that Hyll-Drem stays dry in all but the wettest weather, luckily for us the rumours were true and we enjoyed a days cragging in the rain. Anyway, the route has a steady first pitch which Owain led. Then the main pitch heads out on sloping jugs to reach a 'one cheek seat' in the sky. From here you can oggle the impossible looking crux for as long as you like. Once appropriately intimidated, you set off into a fairly technical sequence utilising some poor undercuts to gain a hidden jug. Swinging wildy on to the jug there's no going back. From here all you can do is pump out until you find the next hidden jug. when I got the second hidden jug I pulled across into the groove and became immobilised by terminal rope drag... rope tranny. I was so pumped I thought it was game over, that I would have to drop off, but they came free after a handful of flicks. The last 10m were all on enormous jugs but being so pumped it felt like a real struggle.
Well that's the top 6 of the last month.
7 July 2011
Reproduction
In the last blog post I said how I’d been feeling good, and climbing well, so I decided to put my money where my mouth is. This week I’m back in Hull, dog sitting (I have a friendly little dog in need of a home. Please get in touch if you’re interested!), meaning the Peak is the venue.
On Monday, with the sun blazing, I made the ever so familiar pilgrimage along the M18, through Sheffield, and on to Stanage. We had a quick climb here but inevitably it was a bit grim in the heat. Back in the car we headed south to the best crag in the peak, High Tor, with one goal in mind...
Between the two classic E5’s ‘Sonic’ and ‘Tales’ lies a big blank section of wall. Peppered with pockets, and flecked with flakes, it provides an incipient line known as Reproduction. Weighing in at E6 6b it seemed like the obvious challenge for me at the moment.
We arrived at the bottom of the crag and the dog was panting away, as we scrambled up to the belay we could see she was being harassed by flies and midges. The odds seemed to be stacking up against me. The dog wasn’t happy, the heat was intense, and the tree belay had gone so I had to sacrifice a couple of runners, but, I’d come all this way, so it was time to go for it.
Setting off I felt more than a little apprehensive, this was my first E6 lead attempt this year and I felt pretty under-prepared. The difficulties kicked in straight away with a crank over a bulge to a blind crack, followed by a delicate rockover using an undercut mono. I started to feel more involved, but with the dog whining, I contemplated backing off. After a quick shake out, some smeary layback moves lead to a big yard around a curving overlap, and a pulse-raising rockover to some good footholds and a proper breather, great climbing so far.
Despite having done the first 3rd of the route, it felt like I had arrived at the start. I made a few moves up, placed a solid rock 5 above my head, and scampered back down to the big footholds. I’d spied a few pockets above my high point, but had no idea what to do from there. I flew back up past the runner and attacked the pockets with determined, probing fingers, disappointed with each and every one of them. There was nothing else, so I cranked away, move by move. I stopped briefly at a good 3 finger pocket, but without much for feet I had to press on. With my feet in the pocket I got a nice incut flake and regrouped. Looking down at the rock 5 way below my feet I felt awesome, until I tried to fiddle in a runner.
I settled with an rp and a microcam, even if they were good placements they would struggle to inspire much confidence. The awesome feeling faded, and as my arms began to tire from the seemingly shrinking finger flake, I felt out of my depth. I knew something didn’t feel right. Looking down at the rock 5 again I contemplated jumping off before I got even further from it. I shook this thought from my head and looked forwards. Okay, the thread runner is only about 4 or 5 metres away and there are lots of pockets to choose from. I pushed on with trepidation, pumping out rapidly through over gripping. I looked down and saw an awesome runner slot, get in! Finally feeling safe again I went for it, feeling composed for a move or two. Although, with my flagging forearms working the digits into the holds became an over whelming effort, and the calves began to quiver as my faith in friction dwindled. I snatched away, surprised to still be on the wall until I latched a deep pocket by the thread. I slapped a quickdraw onto the tat and flailed my wobbling carcass onto the juggy rail, feeling a tangible wave of relief. I’m 2/3rds of the way, my Achilles' are on fire and my forearms are begging for mercy. My lips curl in a maniacal smile. I hope the next bit is as hard.
After a very conscious ten minutes trying to work cams into pockets and get some weight off my toes it was time to go again. Moving up the less steep wall I passed a slopey, mono pocket with bated breath, and got stood in some narrow slots. I stretched upwards for a decent looking hold, but I could sense my feet sliding out the slots. I stabbed for the hold. It gave me nothing. I feel myself falling back, and my pulse goes through the roof. Yet, I am still on the wall. With my tail between my legs I frantically retreat to the rail. I need to reconsider.
The pockets are tick marked, I have two high runners (hope they’re good!), It’s time for the final impasse. Strolling past the mono, and the deceptive hold I get a good pocket and the angle kicks in. I could feel the weight of the ropes now and although I had recovered, the pump was coming back on quickly. I stop thinking about it and intuitive onsighting just, happens. The reoccurring theme of disappointing pockets and blind feet threatens to shatter my reality and release me from my back-seat role. I reach the top, deceived again, all slopey and... fuck. I break out left in desperation. The pockets are shit, I don’t care. Come on, so close now. ‘Locked on’ to an energy sapping, shallow pocket, I stove my toe into a pocket of indeterminate size, cross my brain fingers and commit to a oblique sidepull. Up, up, up. This is it. I’ve done it. Wooooooo! I’ve only gone and bloody reproduced.
When I set off, it felt like it might not have been a good idea but it was. It felt so out-there, the uncertainty is what it’s all about. The worst that could have happened is that I’d have taken a massive fall, even that’s appealing in its own way. Basically, sod the mileage attitude and get on the sharp end. After doing the route I went to Guys house, and on his wall was a postcard saying ‘Only those who take it too far, can ever know how far they can go!’. Go and do it.
6 July 2011
Hotting up...
It’s been a long time since the last blog, mostly down to lack of internet access, but back and ready to vent my bollocks. Well, in a nutshell June was a slow month for climbing but nonetheless a good one. Most days out I was feeling confident and I’ve been chomping at the bit for some difficultly. Ive been to home in Hull narrowly missing out on a day tick of Mr Nice (7c+). Then I had a uni field trip to South Wales i.e. Pembroke, so I took my car and had a few evening sessions. An attempt at White Heat (E5 6b) was aborted from 1/3rd height due to an unnervingly, rapid rising tide, I stripped the route on the descent though so the onsight is still there.
At the end of the trip, a few hours before heading back to Bangor I made a last minute decision to try John Wayne (E5 6a), I’d wanted to do it for a while but found it really intimidating. Trying to exclude and doubting thoughts from my mind I kept busy before abbing in. At the bottom I couldn’t find any more procrastinating tasks so it was time to head upwards. Flying through the preamble things felt good. I was stood on a slabby ramp beneath the route proper, trying to fiddle in some good gear until, click, a sinker wire. It was time to engage the tendons and the pulleys. No hesitation, pulling between fingery breaks I reached the peg. The rough rock teamed with the howling wind provided a certain encouragement. This ascent was different, I just kept going, stopping briefly to send home a cam or clip some tat. Nearing the top I took a deep breath and committed to the final push, which turned out to be ever so slightly anticlimactic as the meat of the route had been done. A desperate drive home ensued, after a 5am rise, I was glad to see my bed at 4am.
John Wayne (E5 6a), Chris Carroll Collection
Back in Bangor I moved into an awesome new house and the weather found its feet. I headed to Idwal slabs and walls with Laura, we smashed out Tennis Shoe Direct (E1 5a) and Rampart Corner (E1 5c) and dropped down to the atmospheric ‘suicide walls’. The intention was to do the ominously named Mur y Meirwon a.k.a Wall of the Dead (E5 6b), but it proved to be absolutely nails so I finished up Suicide Wall (E2 5c). I found myself unable to let it lie, and headed back two days later with my new housemate, Owain to see it right. After seconding Owain on his almost gearless ascent of Suicide Wall it was time for a rematch. It turns out even with the knowledge the start is nails, involving some awkward sloping footholds and fiddly vertical handholds. Made it through this time though and gained the comfort of the ledge. From here its the bold half. As the protection gets wider spaced the difficulty escalates, culminating in a final 14ft run-out on either small or knobbly pockets. On reaching the huge jug at the end of the run-out I let out a celebratory whoop only to find I had one more big move to make. I quickly recomposed and popped for the top. I don’t know if I’ve got the experience to say, but I reckon this route could be soft E6.
Anyway that’s the blog up to date apart from a couple of new projects to mention. One is a new line I’ve found. I managed to top rope the first half clean first go, but it has a hard, thin move which so far doesn’t seem very well protected. I’ve yet to try the second half but thats quite exciting. The next project is more of a long term goal. For a while I had hoped to tick all the extremes in North Wales Rock but I decided to make it a proper goal and try to tick the entirety of NWR from the multipitch Vdiffs to the slate 8b, Bungles’ Arete. Here’s a link to the full list for anyone interested, North Wales Rock Ticklist.
Piece Out x
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